02 March, 2018

Day trip to Bergamo

It has been cold in Europe this week. Our offsite at Lake Maggiore has been wonderfully busy but the summer town was almost empty and the blanket of cold gentle wind swept the lakeside with relentless and beautiful snow.

My room at Grand Hotel Dino 198 has balcony that overlook the Alps. The town was almost empty and our dinner is the only opportunity to get away from hotel. Our first day dinner is at Piccolo Lago. And the second one at restaurant hotel with good cheap Italian wine.

We then transferred to Milan downtown area. Staying at NH Moscova Palazzo. 10mins walk from Milan office and the Porto Garibaldi train station. I changed my plan from Cinque Terre to Bergamo instead. There is hourly train from P. Garibaldi that leaves 31mins past hour on regionale train, cost 4,80 Euro. The train left on time and off we go.



The scenery of country side is serene, and snow is falling throught the hourly trip.


Since snow been gentle but persistent for few days, the field is completely covered with powder snow. Here is a picture from dusty window of the train.

On the way to Calusco, the train passed a single lane track over a beautiful river in snow, called Adda. Ponte San Michele bridge is 279meters clearance over water. What an amazing feeling.

It was snowing really heavily on Bergamo when I arrived approx after 1:20 train ride. I walked around the train station towards Citta Alta, or the Old City.


Passed a small church Chiesa Prepositurale di Santa Maria for quick rest from the cold and snow. Then stopped by supermarket to buy cheap umbrella as my uncovered head was assailed by relentless snow and started to be wet and extremely cold. My feet unfortunately were wearing my old thin-soled brooks walking shoes and as I traipse through the streets with acculumulated snow... I became extremely cold on extremities. Important to keep your core temperature warm and dry.

Dino sculpture in front of Stazione

Torre Dei Caduti

I went to quick visit to the Tower, Torre Dei Caduti, which sits on the old market square and erected almost 100 years ago. There are 188 steps to reach top, costs 3,00 euro and I had the whole tower for myself. The snow on parapet was untouched and 3-inch thick. The visibilty was poor but so amazing to see the whole town blanketted with snow.
My footsteps on fresh snow

Front of top Tower
View towards the hill


I then proceed to look for Caprese, trattoria, a cherry local place with amazing food and set lunch for 8 euro.




I had chicken breast (potto e pollo) grilled and drizzled with olive and fresh salad on side. Fruit glass and caffe (expresso) completed the meal.

The snow has transitioned to rain somewhat but still very cold. I tried to walk to Basilica Santa Maria di Maggiore which takes around 30 mins through uphill cobbled street, that is again, totally empty.

The scene was beautiful and serene and also wet and cold. A huge truck passed spreading salt on the cobbled street followed closely by three cars driving slowly but rocking side to side due to the road surface.


Beautiful Bergamo

The walk took me through winding street as we near the ancient City wall at Largo di Porta S. Alessandro.

It got so cold my iphone started to crash and unable to load its camera. Luckily I brought my powerbank. However, forgot my raincoat. Walk, walk, walk and came upon the square. Tiny square actually but majestic church.. is this Duomo (Cathedral) or Basilica. I almost missed the entrance as the portal that is framed by two large lions are sealed. Luckily I spotted the side entrance which is missable in this weather as the track was covered by snow and the other two entrances on the side are more popularly used.

It turns out, historically the church connects to the Bishop’s Palace.


Read more here.

Sitting on church I yawned widely and two cute Italian kids were amused. The boy is barely six with huge glasses covering half of his face. Girl slightly older and dressed in jeans and cute down jacket. I am tiring and checked the sunset today at 6pm trying to decide if I should stay in Bergamo.

I can imagine church in Europe to be source of calm and serenity. The church is warm and dry while the severe snow was raging outside. It is beautifully decorated and ornate. I was weary and started to feel hot-and-cold. My wet and soggy shoes start to weigh down on my feet, as I was wearing thin-soled barefoot shoes totally unprepared for the snow.


Selfie with my Bergamo umbrella
I walked out the square that is totally covered with snow, but beautiful with snow rain drifting down.

Snow-capped lion at pillar by side entrance

Fascade of the Ch


I contemplated walking up to the next funicular. There are two routes of furnicular of Bergamo. The church is right on the center of it. The public transport system sells two type of ticket: single-ride divided by zone, and 24-hour "tourist" ticket that is again two type: city only 3,60 euro, and whole network that covers airport 5,00 euro. The 24-hour starts from the time you punch the first ticket.

Funicular schedule at winter 2017

I decided to ride south towards Stazione. Upon aligning, I waited for bus 1 or 1A that rounds nearby station. Then bought the ticket. There are some people hanging around the station, some are beggars who would ask for money of food. Best way to deal within them is to look like you know where you are going. If you are being followed, duck into the nearby mom-and-pop shop or cafe. I quickly went to the ticket-booth to buy my ticket so it doesn't look like I am opening my wallet full of Euros in public. Even so, there is someone following me inside. Luckily I know the sharp-eyed Italian couple manning the shop would not let trouble in their shop. Then I missed my 16:21 train to Milan P. Garibaldi by 1-minute. Watch out for the two columns, there is Arrival and Departure timing shown together.

Now I am positively miserable, wet and cold on my feet, feeling shiverish, and feeling followed, I am feeling uncomfortable waiting on platform among the wind. So I quickly spotted the cafe, where passengers going in-and-out for a quick cup of caffe (expresso). I ordered a hot cup of tea. Tips if you feeling like early sign of hypothermia: 1) remove wet article of clothing, 2) dry your body, 3) drink hot liquid, non-alcoholic, and non-caffeinated if possible.

Luckily time flies, while I try to be awake and comfortable. I went to platform 1, sticking to original plan of direct train to Bergamo, then trying to transit else to depart early but risk longer journey home. I tried to enjoy the sunset, but the cloudy and snowy weather means sunset is not as pretty as tropics in Asia.

I arrived back to P. Garibaldi, Milan, walked quickly following Google Map on my phone, and was so relieved arriving at my hotel, NH Palazzo Moscova. I had a long warm shower, and quickly retire to bed, and slept 7pm all the way through 6am.

Waking up early, I was the first one to breakfast at 7am, the spread was heavenly and a treat.



There is my final moment of enjoyment through biz trip in Milan this time. The Sala Montale lounge post passport control at Gate B is nice and busy.

The runway was icy again due to snow.

Icy runway of Malpensa Airport

The plane pushed back on-time at 1240pm and slightly delayed due to de-icing procedure for an uneventful flight back home! What a weekend.
Truffle Negroni at the Bar NH Palazzo Moscova


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