On October 7, 2023, I woke up to a peaceful morning in Tel Aviv, Israel. After making a quick breakfast at our rental AirBNB, I flipped through Netflix being unfamiliar to the unit as we have just arrived back to Tel Aviv after a few days in Jerusalem. The Crown episodes were on season 2 and Olivia Colman's face mimicking the Queen, commented about how she was entering the middle age for woman.
Announcements in Hebrew language flickered across the page, annoying appearing every few mins. I dismissed them as notice being new to the TV and the foreign languages as I continued to catch up on the episodes. My brother woke-up around 9am, and we started wondering about proper brunch on a Shabbat day that is also a major Simchat Torah holiday. That's the reason we returned to Tel Aviv, figuring out that the options would have been much better being in Shabbat in this fun city. Indeed, the night before we hung out at one of the restaurant/bar/art gallery that my Israeli friend recommended around Jaffa area, caught the sunset and walked back leisurely.
I started checking the news of the day, and surprised to see the news about Hamas attack. What??!
We quickly flipped to the news current affair channel, and found CNN. It turned out that those notices on TV were from Israeli Home Defense Front that is responsible for civic defense, annoucing the wave of attack. They were still trying to understand the scope of situation. The casualty count though started from 1, then to 8, and creeps up.
We decided that since I have been awake for hours, I should venture out and get food and maybe to find some supermarket that is open so we can get some fruits and food. I strolled to immediate vicinity of our apartment on Eliat road. The Neve Tsedek neighbourhood was peaceful, a few kids were playing on the field. Morning sun was shining, really beautiful and peaceful weekend morning.
I bumped into a group and two groups of tourists with Asian faces. After saying friendly 'good morning' it is clear that they have just arrived and settling in to this artsy and nice neighbourhood. Even though it is adjacent to the Levinsky market area that we stayed at last week, the vibe is really different. I strolled silently through the silent street. Encountered a family outside the Dalia bakery 'Ah, must be a family business since they sit around outside their famous bakery and restaurant, their faces was stoic but I paid no attention since that's how faces of people in this Middle Eastern area, I have learned. They might be friendly, and willing to help, but they just don't showed it on their faces, any smiles or pleasures...
I checked my GPS, and passed a small street where a group of four were gathering, on the road chatting. I checked the path towards the beach, then turned back. I was trying to get a Jhanuk place that has a good review. As it was a traditional jewish food eaten on a Shabbat morning, I thought it would be a fitting food to try on this holiday morning.
I wonder around, until finally the guy on the group, turned and said "We are selling Jyanuk here".
"Ah, perfect, I am looking for your place."
He gestured towards an open door, which leads the living room of a living quarter, complete with a table with a pot of Jyanuk and condiments.
"Did you know what's happening here?"
I was shocked a little bit, not expecting this small talk that immediately referred to the news.
"Um, yes we saw.."
"It is really bad. The situation, people were shooting at our soldiers. It's better to get some food and just stay indoor whole day."
I thanked him for his advice. He then asked whether I know what food I am getting. I affirmed and then briskly went about my way, pondering what just happened. I wondered whether the situation is really that bad, but the locals seemed to think it is VERY bad and they are supposed to know that their land is unstable.. hmm. I was engrossed in my thoughts that I forgotten to comment on the book Ikigai on the sofa of the food seller, 'I had the same exact book and had gifted it to people for Christmas..'.
I walked quickly making circous route, as I started to figure that it is better to follow his advice and stock on some food. I spotted a few hummus restaurant, which I started to like during my stay, and walked there. The streets are empty. I don't know how it is like on Saturday morning on a typical Shabbat day but I certainly encountered less than 10 people in 20 mins on the street.
The middle-eastern guys were standing around outside the hummus restaurant. They look somehow harried. It is clear that the restaurant is not really open, the tables and chairs were stacked up.
"I want to buy some hummus, yes, for takeaway".
The guy who is best in English, took my order and gave instructions to his friends/family members. Three of them started preparing, and I declined falafel upside. Satisfied that I have a warm plate of takeaway hummus, I started hunting for Supermarket.
After a few rounds, I found Green supermarket, which we found to be generally high in price, but it is open and it is just next to the station. I started to ogle at the fresh avocado, mushroom, and eggs. Outside, a sirene rang and I quickly grabbed items I wanted. Moments later, a loud boom of rocket can be heard. I started to hear a group chatting around the cashier.
A gentleman with dark skin got a phone call immediately, and he started almost shouting into his phone, "Don't panic, listen to me. Everything will be okay." Immediately, I did not quite understand the hysteria that started to form.
"That'll be 97 shekkels. There is no shelter around here...". the cashier commented to me while shaking her head.
I thought about the fact that she has to manned the supermarket on this holiday morning, during this dangerous time with no shelter around, and said "Take care of yourselves."
"Thanks, you take care too."
I quickly hurried back to the apartment, and share the news of my morning venture to my brother.
Sunset in Jaffa on October 6, 2023 |
Beautiful Neve Tsedek neighbourhood on the morning walk |
The empty Hummus restaurant |